Halide

Auto Focus Mode

In automatic Focus mode, it’s still possible to tweak the focus by tapping on the viewfinder. Halide will focus on the objects at that region of the image.

Manual Focus Mode

Lower numbers focus on closer objects, higher numbers focus on far away objects.

Use the Focus Loupe as a visual aide to the sharpness of an object in the center of the image. If focusing on multiple objects or an entire section of the scene, the Focus Peaking works as a visual indicator of sharp edges on the image.

Tapping on the image still works and the focus ring will move to match the selected focus.

Manual White Balance Mode

Choose a specific White Balance strategy if the lighting conditions are a bit extreme. This will be baked in the HEIC/JPEG image saved by Halide but as usual it will not be baked into the RAW file as this is a post-processing concern. If you treat the HEIC/JPEG just as a quick and dirty preview, this mode isn’t all too relevant.

Auto Exposure Mode

You can still tinker with brightness in the automatic mode. Halide will automatically select a baseline exposure for the scene, but by swiping up or down you can increase or decrease the brightness of the image. Halide will adjust Shutter Speed and Camera ISO to achieve the desired brightness.

This manual brightness adjustment stays locked in, even after taping on the viewfinder to focus on a new object or scene and readjust the baseline exposure. To reset the adjustment, double tap the value atop the screen.

Manual Exposure Mode

This mode allows complete control over Shutter Speed (swiping vertically) and Camera ISO (swiping horizontally). Like in Manual Focus Mode, tapping on the viewfinder will auto-configure the exposure settings entirely. This means that this mode doesn’t play very well if you’re having to tap the viewfinder to define Focus, so it sometimes requires Manual Focus Mode to be used as well.

Exposure Quality

Both in Auto Exposure Mode or Manual Exposure Mode, use the Luminosity Histogram, the Color Waveform and the Zebras to determine if the exposure is adequate by avoiding undesired color Clipping.

The Zebras are the most intuitive indicator and will show directly the color being clipped. If the Zebras are grayish or white, this means clipping is happening in the whole RGB set and that region is over-exposed. It’s OK to have some colored Zebras around the scene as complete avoidance of clipping is hard, so a good looking Luminosity Histogram and Color Waveforms should provide the final verdict on exposure quality.

#TODO what is a good looking histogram and what is a good looking color waveform?